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suspention set up

 
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bumble
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject: suspention set up Reply with quote

Are these actually worth the money? around £100
I was thinking about getting mine set up for the gsxr,
Im struggling a little with the height, the cbr was lowered so i could get flat footed, maybe they can take it down a little?
I want as much help as i can with this bike as im going to have it for a long time, (unless i crash it) i was so used to the cbr now all feels strange,
i no the foot pegs can move you can set the gear change lights, but is it worth it or just not fiddle?
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biggus
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a reasonable amount of adjustment, which you will on the GSXE then it's worth doing, however, shop around because £100 sounds a little heavy tbh...

What do you want to improve on it? I would start by checking it's back to stock settings - assuming it's a second hand bike then someone could have decided that they must dial in the "Ultimate suspension settings for your GSXR"...
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming the bike you ride has adjustable suspension it will be the single most important thing you will spend £60 on in my opinion.

Book it in at Steve Jordans and have it done - weigh yourself in your bike gear before attending and no fibbing Laughing
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bumble
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a price from hm racing for £80 + vat,
just want it set up for me personally,
i would really like it to come down a little, im now stopping and putting both feet down as tip toed feels so unsafe,
no idea what anything is set to, never seen a gear change light come up but then ive never thrashed the bollox out of it, so dont no what revs it is set at,
i havent touched anything on the bike since i bought it,

hm racing sit you on the bike and adjust everything then, so its set for your weight,

where is steve jordons?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bumble wrote:
hm racing sit you on the bike and adjust everything then, so its set for your weight,


As should any suspension set up.

bumble wrote:
where is steve jordons?


Steve Jordan Motorcycles
Rear of Beckleys Garage
Leatherhead Rd
Great Bookham
Leatherhead
Surrey
KT23 4RQ
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biggus
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd seriously "consider" noting all the settings now... and seeing how they compare to the stock settings.
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bumble
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what age is the bike?
Check where stock settings should be as suggested

Book it in to be set to you... peace of mind and the reassurance it will give you is priceless however set up is not linked to height of bike

as said though you can adjust pegs but that wont help with getting more foot on the floor

Rev light is to be fair only much cop if you want warning of revs ie redline or running in


but mostly... enjoy Smile
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JimBo
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't proper suspension set up set the bike's ride height, not the rider's? I can see if it's set for a heavier person you will be riding higher, but by how much will it change even when set correctly?

Also, I'm not a fan of gear change lights. I think you should ride according to the engine response and road conditions, not to some prescribed limit.
The rev limiter will cut in if you cane it too much.

Sorry, more questions than answers, but I know little about supension set up anyway. I'm going to take Bob's advice and get mine "done".

£100 is surely money well spent if it enhances the riding experience and makes you safer. £60 would be even better!
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

£100 sounds a bit high, Steve Jordan did mine ages ago, was £50 at the time, .... well worth it.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

followin no rider weight asked and no rider on the bike when i had mine done at steve jordans, (although it did improved the ride experience) i think mine will go to edenbridge Hm racing in future, and the fue cost to hike it over to SJ far outweighs the extra cost of going to HM racing
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bumble
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure the difference to distance between the 2 for me Confused

mine is a 06 bike,

To be honest i just want it a few inches lower, got so used to a lowered bike felt safe flat footed, found it much easier to move about being able to have whole foot pushing into the ground not just my toes,

but if having the suspention done improves other things then great,

regarding the gears i ride my bike with revs quite high to control the bike hardly get past 3rd gear, even when going some,

i have a gear indicator also which i dont even bother with as it takes to long to decide what gear im in and even then it gets it wrong so i dont trust it,
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JimBo wrote:

Also, I'm not a fan of gear change lights. I think you should ride according to the engine response and road conditions, not to some prescribed limit.
The rev limiter will cut in if you cane it too much.



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nosnowking
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I'm as yet undecided about professional suspension setups. The problem is that the suspension will be set according to the pro's personal preference and opinion. There is no "right answer" when it comes to suspension, just personal preference. Static sag is the only thing you can adjust to change the ride height, but this will also have an effect on the rest of the settings.

If you go and have it done, be realistic about your weight, as bob said, but also be realistic about your riding style. Wanting to corner like Rossi is different to being able to corner like Rossi. What roads do you ride? Bumpy back roads? Smooth a roads? Do you like to brake hard into corners? Do you power hard out of corners? All these things affect the geometry of the bike and hence how the suspension should be set.

And I'll say it again. There is no substitute for technique at slow speeds! If you come to a red light and grab a handful of front brake, the bike will nosedive then bounce back as you come to a stop, throwing you off balance. If you're already tiptoeing the bike, this bounce can drastically put you off balance. Plan your riding, plan your stops, at every junction, car park and traffic light. I've just bought a bike I can just about tiptoe, and forward planning has already saved me embarrassment a few times. Laughing

If you ride the bike at high revs a lot, when you chop the throttle the engine braking will be more pronounced and will make the bike dive. Consider using a higher gear and getting the feel of keeping the bike level front to back. Do some reading about what the suspension settings actually do, there are a few good guides around if you google it. A pro won't be able to dial in a magic, perfect setting any more than he can mask less-than-perfect technique.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nosnowking wrote:
Hmmm, I'm as yet undecided about professional suspension setups. The problem is that the suspension will be set according to the pro's personal preference and opinion. There is no "right answer" when it comes to suspension, just personal preference. Static sag is the only thing you can adjust to change the ride height, but this will also have an effect on the rest of the settings.

If you go and have it done, be realistic about your weight, as bob said, but also be realistic about your riding style. Wanting to corner like Rossi is different to being able to corner like Rossi. What roads do you ride? Bumpy back roads? Smooth a roads? Do you like to brake hard into corners? Do you power hard out of corners? All these things affect the geometry of the bike and hence how the suspension should be set.

And I'll say it again. There is no substitute for technique at slow speeds! If you come to a red light and grab a handful of front brake, the bike will nosedive then bounce back as you come to a stop, throwing you off balance. If you're already tiptoeing the bike, this bounce can drastically put you off balance. Plan your riding, plan your stops, at every junction, car park and traffic light. I've just bought a bike I can just about tiptoe, and forward planning has already saved me embarrassment a few times. Laughing

If you ride the bike at high revs a lot, when you chop the throttle the engine braking will be more pronounced and will make the bike dive. Consider using a higher gear and getting the feel of keeping the bike level front to back. Do some reading about what the suspension settings actually do, there are a few good guides around if you google it. A pro won't be able to dial in a magic, perfect setting any more than he can mask less-than-perfect technique.


Wise words m8....

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my suspension set up (Daytona 675 set up by T3 Racing) and I'd say that if you plan on track / fast riding then it's absolutely worth it, so long as you're given the opportunity to feed back to them and re-adjust if it still doesn't feel right. Mine feels really planted and breeds confidence.

As for height... as a few have said suspension set up may help that a little as a side effect, but not much, and that depends on so many factors anyway - your weight etc.

I assume you're trying to avoid lowering your bike. You may have heard some of these before, but as a vertically-challenged sports bike rider myself I've found that, besides planning all your stops, (i) a rolling stop on the back brake in the last 5 yards or so (obviously not in an emergency situation) helps transfer weight to the rear of the bike so that the bike is not dipping in the front and (ii) learning to slide off the seat just before you plant your foot down will help with getting a flat foot on the ground.

HTH
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

darkdreamsgal wrote:


I assume you're trying to avoid lowering your bike. You may have heard some of these before, but as a vertically-challenged sports bike rider myself I've found that, besides planning all your stops, (i) a rolling stop on the back brake in the last 5 yards or so (obviously not in an emergency situation) helps transfer weight to the rear of the bike so that the bike is not dipping in the front and (ii) learning to slide off the seat just before you plant your foot down will help with getting a flat foot on the ground.

HTH


Using the rear brake to come to a stop is possibly the single most helpful thing anyone has taught me in recent times, and has helped smooth out my riding a lot. I almost exclusively use the rear brake at anything below 20mph.

The duff suspension on the fz8 also taught me the importance of front to back balance when riding. Now with the tenere, which is like riding a boat it's all the more important.
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nosnowking wrote:
darkdreamsgal wrote:


I assume you're trying to avoid lowering your bike. You may have heard some of these before, but as a vertically-challenged sports bike rider myself I've found that, besides planning all your stops, (i) a rolling stop on the back brake in the last 5 yards or so (obviously not in an emergency situation) helps transfer weight to the rear of the bike so that the bike is not dipping in the front and (ii) learning to slide off the seat just before you plant your foot down will help with getting a flat foot on the ground.

HTH


Using the rear brake to come to a stop is possibly the single most helpful thing anyone has taught me in recent times, and has helped smooth out my riding a lot. I almost exclusively use the rear brake at anything below 20mph.

The duff suspension on the fz8 also taught me the importance of front to back balance when riding. Now with the tenere, which is like riding a boat it's all the more important.


Can't stoppie with rear brake... FAIL Wink Smile
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

biggus wrote:
nosnowking wrote:
darkdreamsgal wrote:


I assume you're trying to avoid lowering your bike. You may have heard some of these before, but as a vertically-challenged sports bike rider myself I've found that, besides planning all your stops, (i) a rolling stop on the back brake in the last 5 yards or so (obviously not in an emergency situation) helps transfer weight to the rear of the bike so that the bike is not dipping in the front and (ii) learning to slide off the seat just before you plant your foot down will help with getting a flat foot on the ground.

HTH


Using the rear brake to come to a stop is possibly the single most helpful thing anyone has taught me in recent times, and has helped smooth out my riding a lot. I almost exclusively use the rear brake at anything below 20mph.

The duff suspension on the fz8 also taught me the importance of front to back balance when riding. Now with the tenere, which is like riding a boat it's all the more important.


Can't stoppie with rear brake... FAIL Wink Smile


Laughing Not strictly true...... I remember Matt saying about one of his police instructors being able to do stoppies with his hands held above his head on the early linked brake systems on the Police BMW RT's Wink
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tusky wrote:
biggus wrote:
nosnowking wrote:
darkdreamsgal wrote:


I assume you're trying to avoid lowering your bike. You may have heard some of these before, but as a vertically-challenged sports bike rider myself I've found that, besides planning all your stops, (i) a rolling stop on the back brake in the last 5 yards or so (obviously not in an emergency situation) helps transfer weight to the rear of the bike so that the bike is not dipping in the front and (ii) learning to slide off the seat just before you plant your foot down will help with getting a flat foot on the ground.

HTH


Using the rear brake to come to a stop is possibly the single most helpful thing anyone has taught me in recent times, and has helped smooth out my riding a lot. I almost exclusively use the rear brake at anything below 20mph.

The duff suspension on the fz8 also taught me the importance of front to back balance when riding. Now with the tenere, which is like riding a boat it's all the more important.


Can't stoppie with rear brake... FAIL Wink Smile


Laughing Not strictly true...... I remember Matt saying about one of his police instructors being able to do stoppies with his hands held above his head on the early linked brake systems on the Police BMW RT's Wink


There's always one Speccy Wink
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't do it on the Tuono.....back brake don't work !! Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

moriwaki wrote:
Can't do it on the Tuono.....back brake don't work !! Rolling Eyes


is that electric too? Smile
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick note to say if you do bring it over to us and let me know your a member on here we can do it for £55 inc Vat.

As far as rider sag being used, this is really only of any benefit to tell if the springs fitted to your bike are the right rate for you and what riding your doing. If your looking at changing springs then rider sag is useful but static sag is alot more important hence why we dont ask everyone to sit on their bike during the setup.

Cool
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't stoppie anyway, front forks are about six feet long, filled with marshmallows and fluff. By the time they've bottomed out you've travelled another half a mile. Laughing
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sarah Jordan wrote:
Just a quick note to say if you do bring it over to us and let me know your a member on here we can do it for £55 inc Vat.

As far as rider sag being used, this is really only of any benefit to tell if the springs fitted to your bike are the right rate for you and what riding your doing. If your looking at changing springs then rider sag is useful but static sag is alot more important hence why we dont ask everyone to sit on their bike during the setup.

Cool

Hi Sarah!
good to see you posting Smile

I'll be bringing my K9 for set up soon, just need to get time off work to do that!!
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